You can also set this flash to TTL and adjust the flash exposure down by 1-2 stops using the exposure compensation dial (note: the compensation dial does not adjust the background exposure in this case because both shutter speed and aperture are set manually. Finally, fill flash is achieved by further shutting down the aperture by 1-2 stops, and correspondingly adjusting the shutter speed. Then set the appropriate camera distance based on the film ISO, selected aperture and guide number. My F3HP battery and shutter have never died throughout decades of use, and a single battery seems to last forever with the camera's low power usage.īalanced fill flash is available for these flash units on the F3, but you have to first set the background exposure manually, with a shutter speed at or below the maximum electronic flash synchronization speed. Nevertheless, this is almost never going to become an issue.
#Nikon f90x vs f3 full
Certainly not as good as a full range of shutter speeds, but at least flexible enough for many situations in an emergency, especially if you have a tripod available. Just push the mechanical shutter release lever on the front of the camera, although the mechanical shutter speed is limited to only 1/60 second.
#Nikon f90x vs f3 series
Unlike the semi-pro bodies like the FE and FM, the film advance lever on the F3 may be operated in one complete stroke or a series of shorter ones.
#Nikon f90x vs f3 manual
However, if you just want a high-end film camera for slower, more deliberative shooting, manual film advance provides quieter film operation, much better battery life, and a smaller and lighter package compared with the auto-advance F4, F5 and F6. This is great if you are shooting rapidly. Starting from the F4, these cameras switched to built-in automatic film winding. The F3 is the last F-series body to have manual film wind, unless you attach the optional MD-4 Motor Drive (with up to 6 frames per second performance). However, you can push a small button on the prism to temporarily illuminate the display in the dark. The F3's viewfinder display is not automatically illuminated in order to save battery power when not needed. This system, while extremely accurate, is not as clear or quick as the match needle setup in the Nikomat EL/FE/FE2/FM3A or the three diode (-o+) setup in the F2AS/FM/FM2n system. You adjust the exposure until both the + and - indicators are visible at the same time. When in manual exposure mode, all you see are small +- indicators on the top left of the viewfinder. One important thing that I don't like about the F3's manual exposure mode is the compact-style manual exposure indicator in the viewfinder. However, since I personally find it uncomfortable to use the exposure lock button in this position, I usually use manual exposure mode unless I am in a rush to shoot. You can center the 80% central spot on the metering target, then hold down the exposure memory lock button on the front of the the body and reframe.
The 80% weight allows you to easily meter on the most important section of the image, while still incorporating some exposure information from the remainder of the frame. In my view, the 80% central weighting is a great compromise between Nikon's normal 60/40 weighting and a spot meter. A really cool feature of the F3 is the 80% center-weighted exposure meter, concentrated on the viewfinder's 12 mm outer reference circle area. Simply turn the shutter speed dial to "A" to utilize this function. The shutter release button is positioned just right in the middle of the body and has a silky-smooth feel.Īs indicated above, the F3 is the first F-series to support aperture priority automatic exposure instead of just manual exposure.
#Nikon f90x vs f3 iso
The F3 is the first F-level camera to utilize a standard ISO shutter release thread in the center of the shutter release button, instead of the older AR-2 style connector. The shutter and meter are locked off when the film advance lever is pressed into the lock position. Even with the switch in the on position, the meter circuit does not actually activate unless the film wind crank is pulled slightly and the shutter release button pushed part way down. Fortunately, there is no reason why the switch could not just be left in the on position during periods when the camera is in use. I had get the switch replaced at the local repair shop. In fact, my original switch recently got damaged from long use and was stuck in the off position. However, I find the switch on the F3 quite tight and hard to turn. This is something of a precursor to a similar switch on the future F4 and other newer Nikons. The exposure meter on/off switch is a plastic lever that is incorporated around the shutter release button.
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